Hoover Wilderness and Yosemite National Park, California, USA

July 2020

Getting There and Logistics

The Hoover Wilderness Robinson Creek Trailhead, located in Twin Lakes just outside of Bridgeport, is the best access point for this lollipop loop into NE Yosemite. While this route contains over half its miles in Yosemite National Park, overnight permits must be reserved through Hoover Wilderness. This is because the trailhead entry/exit is outside of Yosemite. Any trips that begin/end in Yosemite must be made following national park reservation guidelines. From June 15 – October 15, there is a daily quota for each trailhead for overnight visitors. Bear canisters are required for overnight travel into both Hoover and Yosemite. While traveling throughout any Wilderness area, all rules and regulations must be followed, including fire restrictions. More information can be found at www.fs.usda.gov/detail/htnf/passes-permits/

We made the 5 hour drive from the Bay Area and spent the night at Robinson Creek Campground to help with altitude acclimatization, securing one of the last walk-in sites. Early the next morning, we drove to the end of Twin Lakes and paid the $15 overnight backpackers parking fee at Annette’s Mono Village. Bears frequent the area, so any scented items were stored in our extra bear canister and stashed underneath our car. To access the Robinson Creek trailhead, we walked straight through the campground (there are no signs) along a road with an open meadow on our left. The wilderness trailhead sign is posted next to the fire road after the last campsites disappear.

The Route

Trip Report and Route Description

The wide trail meandered through a forest of large Jeffrey Pine while maintaining a gentle incline before emptying out into a meadow with views of little Slide Canyon and the Sawtooth Range. In about 3 miles, the trail climbed for another mile up easy switchbacks through groves of quaking aspen, until it reached photogenic Barney Lake. This is a very popular destination for dayhikers to enjoy swimming, picnicking, and taking in the views. (Scroll down to check out our photos of Barney Lake from the hike out, as the incoming storm clouds made for dramatic effect!)

After a quick stop to adjust our packs and eat a light snack at the lake, we continued along the right side of the lake towards the beginning of our loop. This part of the trail has full sun exposure, so we were glad to be hiking it in the morning hours. Wildflowers lined the trail and clustered around the runoff creeks, so the going was slow because of all the photo ops!

We crossed Robinson Creek and began our partially shaded climb along the trail, staying within earshot of the creek. 1.5 miles and several switchbacks later, we came to a fork in the trail that would begin our giant lollipop loop over the next few days. We hung a left, gradually climbing just over 1.5 miles to the scenic Robinson Lakes and Crown Lake. The views became more majestic as we neared 11,364′ Crown Point. Colorful wildflowers continued to line the trail, and the clear blue water beckoned our aching feet.

We soaked our feet in the cold waters of Crown Lake then began an intense 1000′ climb over 1.5 miles up to Mule Pass. We had left the crowds behind, enjoying the feeling of solitude on the empty trail. As we climbed, we observed alpine songbirds defending a nest, tiny frogs and fish in glacial runoff creeks, and wildflowers as far as the eye could see. Patches of snow lined the trail the further we climbed. We reached a high meadow, navigated our way across a large flooded meadow, and eventually made it atop Mule Pass.

At 10,470′, Mule Pass is located just below Slide Mountain. This is the boundary of Yosemite National Park. We soaked in the expansive views from the pass, noting our destination in the distance. We had planned to camp in the valley below the Sawtooth Range, but a group of backpackers advised us that the camping near the tarn below the Finger Peaks was amazing. This area was about 4.5 miles further along. It would be a push, especially on our first day at altitude, but we were willing to try! The trail descended through lush pine forest to the base of what I call “upper Slide Canyon” and a beautiful meandering creek. The sounds of running water accompanied us for the remainder of the hike. It was getting late and we were hungry for dinner, so we stopped to boil water and soak our dehydrated meals. We usually start night 1 with our favorite meal to share, the Backpacker’s Pantry Three Sister’s Stew. We lumbered along for another 30 minutes while the food soaked and decided to eat on some rocks overlooking a verdant meadow. The trail disappeared a few times due to some flooding in the meadow, but we eventually climbed our way up to the unnamed tarns below the Finger Peaks. It was windy, so we found a spot to pitch our tent in the shelter of some big rocks and settled in for the night. We woke several times to see the amazing star-scape, including Venus and the moon rising above the Sawtooth Range.

It was a chilly morning when we awoke, so we packed up after finishing a quick breakfast of Poptarts and dried fruit. Even though 10,650′ Burro Pass was only a half mile away, our bodies moved slowly as we sucked air, still not used to the low oxygen at higher altitude. We had been taking Diamox for a few days, but acclimating has always been a struggle for us flatlanders. Reaching the top of Burro Pass, the wind whipped up Matterhorn Canyon and felt refreshing. With Matterhorn Peak directly in front of us, we took tons of photos and relished the views of the canyon.

The descent into Matterhorn Canyon was unreal… it felt like we were in another country. We didn’t see another person in the entire canyon. In fact, it wasn’t until early evening that we saw another human on the trail! We took our time hiking down the 5+ mile long canyon (it was all downhill, after all), stopping several times to splash our feet in the water and cool our knees. Once again, the wildflower displays were fabulous and the cascades plentiful. The day warmed up and by the time we hit the PCT at the Matterhorn Creek crossing in a large, flat meadow, it was downright hot. Thus began our 4.5 mile ascent up Wilson Creek canyon towards Benson Pass. We were surprised to see a plethora of small trout in the creek! The combination of Diamox, heat, and perhaps dehydration (although I was drinking a ton of water and electrolytes) had me feeling quite weak, so after a few miles of switchbacks we lumbered over to the creek to rest. To our delight, we found some great potholes to “swim” in and took almost an hour cooling off in the refreshingly cold water.

We returned to the trail and continued our climb up to 10,140′ Benson Pass. Hungry for dinner, we boiled water at the crest and let our dehydrated food soak for about 20 minutes before scarfing it down on some rocks halfway down the other side of the pass. We reached Smedberg Lake in about 2.5 miles, and set up our tent on a ledge overlooking the water just before dusk. There were several solo campers scattered around the lake, which was to be expected now that we were on the PCT superhighway. That evening, while falling asleep, we heard a small mammal (a weasel or pine martin perhaps?) fiddling with our hiking poles. By the time we got out of the tent it had chewed through the straps and gnawed off the foam handles on 3 of them!!! Lesson learned–from then on we stored our poles inside the vestibules. The mosquitoes were relentless at dusk and dawn, later noting that this was the worst spot for the little blood suckers on the entire trip.

We set out early the next morning and spotted a family of Sooty Grouse (aka forest chickens) on the trail. Instead of following the curve of the trail, we opted for some fun off-trail navigation and ventured toward the outlet creek for Smedberg. It was a little tricky going down some steep granite slabs and required some minor bouldering. However, we were treated to a nice waterfall and the chance to fill our hydration bladders with some delicious water. After chilling in the sun for a bit, we met up with the trail and began a long, steep, and arduous 2000′ descent to Benson Lake. At 7581′, Benson Lake would be the lowest point on our route, not counting the trailhead. Taking the 0.4 mile spur trail to the lake itself led us through a marshy forest full of leopard lilies, butterflies, and (no surprise here) mosquitoes.

Often referred to as “the Riveria of the Sierra”, Benson Lake sports a long sandy beach and gorgeous mountain views. Luckily, we had the entire place to ourselves! We couldn’t help but chill in the sand for over an hour after taking a dip in the icy cold water. We reluctantly left the lake in the afternoon, and climbed steadily in the heat towards 9150′ Seavy Pass. I neglected to fill up my hydration bladder at the tarns along the pass, so by the time we left the PCT and descended down to Rancheria Creek, I was thirsty. We filtered the cool water and emerged into some of the loveliest meadows I have ever seen. It was iconic Yosemite high country, and we couldn’t take enough photos. We took off our shoes for each creek crossing (there were several wide crossings) and enjoyed the feel of the soft sand beneath our feet. Evening was upon us, so we stopped to eat our dinner on some boulders next to the trail. We met a friendly couple who eagerly chatted with us for about 45 minutes about backpacking, gear, trails, and adventures (all the fun things!). We noticed that the light in the canyon was beginning to dim, so we said our goodbyes after exchanging emails and lumbered on another mile or so before leaving the trail to find a good camp spot.

When we woke the next morning, we decided to venture further off trail to peaceful Arndt Lake. We climbed some rocks above the lake and were rewarded with an expansive view of valley containing Rancheria Creek. Instead of making our way back to the trail, we paralleled it by crossing through the meadow, following the meandering creek northward. Eventually we hopped back on the trail, climbed a few hundred feet through a pine forest, and emerged in scenic Kerrick Meadow. Here the trail skirts the fragile meadow for 1.4 miles before reaching a junction with the Barney Lake trail. We took a right and followed an easy path for 1.2 miles to gorgeously picturesque Peeler Lake.

Peeler Lake, located at the boundary of Hoover Wilderness and Yosemite NP, is situated on the Sierra Crest. It is one of few documented lakes that have outlet creeks down both sides of the Sierra Nevada: east into the Walker Basin (Nevada) and west into the Pacific Ocean. There are several designated campsites around the lake, as it’s popular for both fishing and swimming. With Crown Point as a backdrop, this lake is prime for photo ops.

Leaving the lake, we had about 7.5 miles and 2400′ to descend back to the trailhead. Clouds were just beginning to form to the south, and the further we trekked the more they increased in size and intensity. By the time we hit Barney Lake, we could see thunderheads forming in the distance. These puffy clouds made for some amazing photos at the lake. We huffed it out of there, hiking quickly over the final 4 miles as thunder boomed in the distance. Fortunately, we outhiked the storm and made it safely back to our car. We treated ourselves to an indulgent (read: unhealthy) and delicious take-out meal at Annette’s Mono Village cafe: Casey with his cheeseburger and fries and me with a grilled cheese with bacon and tomato and chips. After an amazing trek, our legs were tired, but the trip wasn’t quite over. We drove the 5.5 hours home and arrived just before midnight, immensely proud of ourselves for completing another adventure in the Sierra!

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona, USA

November 2019

The Grand Canyon is a wonderful place to visit in the fall when the weather is cooler and the crowds have lessened. For our November visit, we decided to tackle a portion of the Tonto Trail, which lies about 1000′ above the Colorado River on a plateau called the Tonto Shelf. We started down the popular Bright Angel trail, passing hikers, tourists, and backpackers filled with early morning energy and excitement. The previous week had brought an early freeze, so a few of the water stations along the trail had already been shut off for the winter season. Once we reached Indian Garden campground, we filled our hydration bladders to the brim at the water station located near the pit toilets because we knew that water would be scarce along the Tonto.

The Tonto Trail intersects the Bright Angel Trail just before it descends into the lower canyon. We took a left onto the trail that follows the wide-open expanse of the Tonto Shelf. The views here are spectacular. You can see the canyon rim as well as portions of the Colorado River all along this trail, as it meanders in and out of side canyons and gullies. At this time of year, most of the springs were dry so we were happy to have plenty of water to last us the entire day.

We arrived at Monument Creek campground late in the day and quickly found a secluded spot to set up camp. Monument Creek was running, so we were able to filter water for cooking. A new restroom with 2 vault toilets was built at this campground just this year (2019).

We rose early the next morning to begin our 9-mile trek out of the canyon. We started along the Tonto Trail with epic views of The Abyss, near the headwaters of Monument Creek.

The views towards the west opened up as we made a gradual uphill climb around Cope Butte, towards the cutoff for the Hermit Trail. We could see the Hermit Rapids at the intersection of Hermit Creek and the Colorado River in the distance.

As the Hermit Trail steadily climbed, we followed switchbacks for 1.5 miles towards the Cathedral Stairs and were rewarded with an amazing view from Breezy Point. From there, the trail hugged the steep canyon wall for nearly 4 miles, as we hiked in the early morning shade. We enjoyed views of Ermita Mesa across Hermit Creek Canyon. This entire section was my favorite part of the trail.

Santa Maria Spring was full of thirsty hikers and lush green foliage and marked just 2.2 miles to the top of Hermit’s Rest. The climb above Hermit’s Basin was tough and relentless, and mostly in direct sunlight. It was sweet relief once we made it to the top!

Capitol Reef National Park, Utah, USA

October 2019

Express Tips:

• Take more water than you need, there are no reliable water sources
• A high clearance 4WD vehicle is required to make it beyond the first parking lot and trailhead

Located in the southern portion of Capitol Reef National Park at the top of the Burr Trail switchbacks, this lollipop trail showcases a number of arches as well as outstanding views of the Waterpocket Fold along the rim. In this section of the park, Navajo and Wingate Sandstone have eroded over eons to expose distinct arches, bold shapes, and colorful layers.

For this trip, we dispersed camped in BLM land just outside of the National Park, along Bullfrog-Notom Road. We drove to the intersection of the Burr Trail and climbed the fun switchbacks towards the trailhead. You will need a high clearance vehicle to drive the 2.9 miles to the Strike Valley Overlook trailhead parking area. Otherwise, you will need to leave your low-clearance vehicle at a pull-out around 0.3 miles from the Burr Trail and walk the road towards the trailhead.

The counterclockwise 9 mile hike begins as an easy meander through Upper Muley Twist Canyon. There is no reliable water along this trail, so please carry more than you think you will need to stay hydrated. You will begin to notice arches and interesting rock formations on the western side of the canyon. There are a total of 5 arches on this hike, not including 2 that are visible from the dirt road while driving in. All of the arches are located on the western canyon walls. There is a narrows section that requires a difficult climb up a dry pour-off about 2.3 miles from Saddle Arch, and the NPS has built a bypass trail on the eastern canyon wall. We chose to take the bypass route for the views.

The hike quickly intensifies as you begin to climb out of the canyon along the eastern wall, and eventually tops out on the eastern rim. The views of the Waterpocket Fold and Strike Valley along the rim are spectacular. The 2.7 mile rim route has cairns marking the way and follows the ridge along some exposed narrow sections. Please be careful and watch your footing, especially if the trail is wet or icy.

Watch for cairns that indicate your climb down from the rim and back into the twisting canyon below. Once you meet up with the canyon, turn left and retrace your steps back to the parking lot.

Sequoia National Park in California’s Southern Sierra Nevadas is home of the largest trees on earth, the Giant Sequoia. Groves of these massive trees are scattered throughout the park, along easy walking trails and many perched along the roadside. This trail rewards hikers with high Sierra views and picturesque alpine lakes in a relatively short distance (12 miles round trip), while being easily accessible from the main highway. Due to the high altitude of this hike, it is recommended to bring plenty of water, salty snacks, and sun protection and watch for signs of altitude sickness (headache, nausea, dizziness). The trailhead starts at 7200′ and climbs 3200′ to a maximum altitude of about 9500′ at Pear Lake.

The trail begins with a gradual climb through a mixed pine and fir forest. At the first trail junction, you can choose to access the lakes via the Hump Trail or the Watchtower Trail. We chose the Watchtower trail because of the granite views and drop-offs. It is recommended that if you have a fear of heights to take the Hump Trail, although we found the drop-offs to be minor and the trail width more than adequate for two people to pass. This being a National Park, they would rather be cautious; the NPS closes this trail in the winter due to icy conditions.

After the climb intensified we arrived at the Watchtower, which is a large granite outcropping that looks like a climber’s dream. The trail hugs the cliff for a short section before rounding a bend and dropping down to picturesque Heather Lake. Continue hiking through open granite dotted with trees and wildflowers, climbing past Emerald Lake, then reaching your final destination of Heather Lake. Each lake is rimmed by high rocky peaks and ridges, providing a feeling of being in the High Sierra. The views are breathtaking.

To return to the parking lot, simply retrace your steps. For a little variety, you can take the Hump Trail on your return.

The Island in the Sky district is the most visited district in Canyonlands Nation Park, although you may have this trail to yourself. This area is located at the northern end of Canyonlands National Park, about a 45-minute drive from the town of Moab, Utah. Due to their accessibility, many trails in this district are crowded. If you crave solitude, then it’s best to choose a trail that descends from the rim of the Island in the Sky down towards the White Rim Road and river canyons beyond.

We began our out-and-back hike at the Lathrop Trailhead, which was located 2 miles past the Island in the Sky Visitor Center near a small sign. There were plenty of roadside parking spaces available at the trailhead, with enough space for 10 to 12 vehicles.

The trail began uneventfully. We traversed soft sand across the mesa for 1.5 miles, which is typical of hikes found above the rim in the Island in the Sky district.

At around 1.75 miles, the views open up and you can see over the rim and into canyon country.

At this point, the trail varies between soft sand and sandstone. The sand is perhaps 2″ to 3″ deep at points and was noticeably more difficult to walk in. Some of the sandstone in this section has colorful patterns similar to what you might see at “The Wave” in Arizona.

At about 2.25 miles the route along the shelf to Lathrop Canyon is more evident. The trail descends to the first shelf below the rim, and the route can be seen hugging the shelf to the south. The views of the canyons, the Colorado River, the white rim, and the trail hugging the shelf were some of my favorites of this route.

The trail hugs the first shelf below the rim for the next .75 miles before descending into Lathrop Canyon. This section boasts great views of Canyonlands. The trail winds around a point and then back towards Lathrop Canyon. If you are afraid of heights you may want to turn back at this point. We always felt safe here, as there was an adequate distance between the trail and the shelf’s drop off.

The trail descending into Lathrop Canyon was not easily distinguished from other sections of the canyon on the shelf. Pay close attention to the cairns to follow this section of the trail. The descent follows a steep rock fall and looks almost like it would be too hard to go down. You may ask yourself, “Am I crazy for going down this?” The trail down does look difficult, but it is safe and perhaps better digested piecemeal.

The descent is about 1800 feet in a third of a mile. There are many switchbacks and while the grade is steep, there was nothing that required any technical climbing skills or equipment.

About a third of the way down the rocks, we were happy to give our knees a break when the trail turned into a more moderate grade. The trail continued to level off, and the canyon views opened up. On both sides of the trail, we could see the remnants of uranium mines, a throwback to a time prior to this area being designated a National Park. In another .6 miles we eventually descended all the way to the bottom of the canyon and found mud, but no water. We continued a little further and noticed interesting rocks along the trail overlooking the bottom of the canyon.

We continued about another .6 miles and decided not to hike all the way to the White Rim due to time constraints. Instead, we continued along a mesatop ridgeline to enjoy the solitude and views, then eating lunch before we started our journey up and out of the canyon.

It goes without saying that the journey back up the 1800′ in a third of a mile was more difficult and time-consuming than coming down, but it was all worth it.

We hiked the 3 miles back to our car, retracing our steps along the shelf and onto the plateau, though with a different perspective looking out into the afternoon light of Canyonlands this time.

The Needles District is located in the southeastern corner of Canyonlands National Park, about a 90-minute drive from the town of Moab, Utah. Often less crowded than the more accessible Island in the Sky District, this area is a fun place to explore on foot. The Needles contains fascinating red rock formations made of Cedar Mesa Sandstone, many of which are accessible by hiking trails and 4-wheel drive roads.

We began our loop hike at the Elephant Hill Trailhead, which was located at the end of a scenic bumpy access road just beyond Squaw Flat Campground. The dirt and gravel road did not require a high-clearance vehicle. The Chesler Park Trail climbs slightly over slickrock, then levels out while passing the Chesler Park Overlook, which offers amazing views of the Needles and the La Sal Mountains to the north. Travel 1.5 miles and then at the next two trail junctions, choose the trail to the right and follow the signs towards Chesler Park. At the third trail junction, take the short trail to the left that heads directly into the Chesler Park Loop and make sure to take in the views behind you. The official Chesler Park Loop begins about 2.5 miles from the trailhead at Elephant Hill.

We decided to hike the 5-mile loop counterclockwise after reading several trail reviews. The views in Chesler Park were amazing, which made for a really fun and rewarding experience. Chesler Park itself is like a large meadow that is surrounded by tall red and white sandstone spires. Hiking counterclockwise, the trail climbs in and out of washes, over slickrock, and is generally downhill until it reaches a sandy 4-wheel drive road. We hiked on the road for 0.4 miles, taking care to keep to the left at the fork. This spur road leads back to the loop trail after a half mile, which will take you through The Joint section. We were surprised to see an outhouse and picnic table at the end of this spur road, as they were not on the map.

The Joint was a super fun section of the trail that squeezes through narrow cracks that form a deep ravine in the rock. One very short section required a scramble up an old log, and it was helpful to have a partner to lend a hand.

After exiting The Joint, we admired more views of Chesler Park under blue skies lined with jet streams from passing planes. Continuing counterclockwise, there were several designated backpacking campsites along this portion of the trail. You can apply for overnight permits here https://canypermits.nps.gov/.

We decided to add a side trip to Druid Arch, so we took a 0.8 mile connector trail to the Druid Arch Trail. The connector trail was really cool, as it provided some awesome views of the surrounding spires, and as a bonus we had the entire trail to ourselves.

Meeting up with the Druid Arch Trail was like merging onto the freeway. This popular trail follows the dry, sandy and rocky streambed of Elephant Wash for a total of 3.4 monotonous miles. Fortunately, at this junction we only had 1.8 miles to the arch. There were a couple of sketchy scrambles up some slickrock pour-offs, and one section near the end of the trail that utilized a metal ladder and some re-bar. These sections could be dangerous in wet or icy conditions. In the end, the crowded trek was worth the view of Druid Arch.

After taking in the immensity of the Druid Arch, we turned around and followed the trail for 3.4 miles through the wash, past the junction to Squaw Flat, and on to the junction of the Chesler Park Trail. At this point, we took the trail to the right and continued back to the Elephant Hill Trailhead, enjoying the afternoon scenery.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona, USA

November 2018

The Grand Canyon, boasting majestic scenery and jaw-dropping views, is home to world-renowned backpacking and hiking trails. This natural wonder of the world has been a National Park since 1919.  Thought to be about 6 million years old, due to recent findings geologists now believe that the canyon was formed about 17 million years ago.  The oldest signs of human civilization found at the park are Paleoindian artifacts that are about 12,000 years old.  The region has been continuously habituated since that time by 11 different Native American tribes.  The Grand Canyon region is also home to 24 endemic species (both wildlife and plant life), as well as 8 endangered species, most notably the California Condor (if you are lucky you might spot one near its nesting site on the south rim).  The climate is mild and receives little precipitation. 

By far the most impressive aspect of the Grand Canyon is its geologic history.  Thanks to the Colorado River slowly cutting its meandering course through the earth over millions of years, we have an unprecedented view of cakelike layers of different rock formations.  Each layer tells a complex story of what life on earth was like when that layer acted like the Earth’s crust.  While erosion played a huge role in forming the Grand Canyon and its side canyons, tectonic shifts, like that of the Bright Angel fault, are also responsible for the constant evolution of this beautiful canyon.  To learn more about the fascinating geology of the Grand Canyon, please follow this link https://www.nps.gov/grca/learn/nature/geologicformations.htm.

You can start this destination hike either by driving or by flying into Las Vegas, Phoenix, or Flagstaff airports.  We decided it would be best to fly into Las Vegas because of the great rates on flights and hotels. We flew into Las Vegas on Southwest Airlines on Friday morning.  https://www.southwest.com/air/booking/index.html

After picking up our rental car, we were happy to leave the smoke, lights, and sounds of Sin City.   We drove about 5 hours through the arid landscape via the old Route 66 to make it to our clean and unpretentious hotel, The Grand Canyon Plaza in Tusayan: https://www.grandcanyonplaza.com/. We were up at 5 am, drove 15 short minutes to the Grand Canyon Visitor’s Center parking lot, and were at the bus stop by 5:45 am.  We took the Orange Route bus to the South Kaibab trailhead.  Armed with headlamps, our boots hit dirt at 6:15 am!

The South Kaibab Trail is very well-maintained.  We were impressed with the feel of the trail (soft dirt, very little rocks or scree), and our knees thanked us later.  The trail follows a ridgeline and provides awe-inspiring views of the canyon the entire way, making it one of the most scenic hikes we’ve ever encountered.  The slope is consistent and not too steep, however, we both used a pair of hiking poles throughout the descent.  This trail has no shade and no water sources.  We were surprised at the sight of  2 solar-powered pit toilet facilities along the trail, one at Cedar Ridge and the other at Tipoff.  For pit toilets, these are again very well maintained and clean inside.  Our descent, we stopped several times along the way to film the sunrise, take scenic photos, eat snacks, and stretch. Once we reached the Colorado River, we entered a small tunnel then crossed the Black Bridge to the other side of the canyon.  From there it was a short, nearly-flat traverse to the Bright Angel Campground and Phantom Ranch.  The entire descent took us 3 hours. 

For an excellent resource on the South Kaibab Trail, including a trail description, please follow this link:   https://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/upload/south_kaibab_trail.pdf

After taking a 45-minute rest at Phantom Ranch, we started our ascent to the South Rim via the Bright Angel Trail. 

The Bright Angel trail is considered to be the safest and most well-maintained trail at Grand Canyon National Park.  Highly popular with hikers and mule trains alike, this trail boasts many water stops, covered rest houses, and solar-powered pit toilets. There is a campground and a ranger station about halfway down at Indian Gardens. Because this trail follows the Bright Angel faultline (essentially forming a large crack-like canyon that perpendicularly intersects the Colorado River formed Grand Canyon), the views along the trail are framed by dominating cliffs.  This trail is shadier and has more plant life than the South Kaibab trail.  Thus, the Bright Angel Trail is very crowded with hikers and backpackers. We encountered day hikers, multi-day backpackers, and casual hikers that ventured down from the rim for a mile or two.  We were never quite alone on this trail, even in late November.

After crossing the Colorado River via the Silver Bridge, the trail remains fairly flat, with little elevation gain, while it follows the river for a while.  We had some nice views of the rapids along the way.  Once we turned up into the side canyon formed by the Bright Angel fault, our climbing began.  The majority of our ascent was in the shade, and the temperatures were quite cool when the wind picked up.  The uphill grade is steady until shortly after leaving Indian Gardens.  The last 3-4 miles of the trail are steep, seemingly endless switchbacks that climb up the side of a cliff to the rim.  There are 2 rest houses along the way if needing shelter from the elements.  We stopped many times for snacks and photos along the way, so the entire ascent took us 5 hours. 

For an excellent resource on the Bright Angel Trail, including a trail description, please follow this link: https://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/upload/bright_angel_trail.pdf

Here is a gallery of some of the best shots we took with our iPhones

Olympic National Park, Washington, USA

October 2018

The Olympic Peninsula is one of the greenest and most majestic places on earth. Its treasures are well hidden by the miles of trails it takes to get to the center, and at 1,442 square miles, you could take a couple of days to drive around the circumference of the park. The area has been recognized as a National Park by Congress since 1938 making it 80+ years old. The park is home to deer, Roosevelt elk, black bears, and non-native mountain goats. The climate is considered a temperate rainforest that receives approximately 56 inches of precipitation per year.

You can start this destination hike by flying into the Seattle airport. We flew in Friday on Southwest Airlines. When we fly with Southwest we take advantage of our companion pass. https://www.southwest.com/air/booking/index.html

We picked up our rental car at SeaTac and took a ferry across Puget Sound from Seattle to the Olympic Peninsula. Taking the ferry to Bainbridge Island was a treat. The views of Seattle and the ferry experience were well worth the cost of the trip at less than $20. For more information on the current fares see http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries/fares/.

Once on Bainbridge Island, we drove 1 hour and 15 minutes to Sequim, WA, the base town for our trip. We stayed at the unpretentious and clean Great House Motel. The two biggest factors in finding this hotel were its low price and the reviews stating it was clean. For more information on the Great House Hotel, see https://www.greathousemotel.com/.

We arrived late at the hotel but had time to unpack and prepare the day ahead. We woke up at 6 am to drive the last 1 hour and 30 minutes to the parking lot of the Sol Duc River trailhead. When we arrived that morning the parking lot was almost empty, with a few backpackers’ cars here and there.

The trail conditions were excellent. One issue with the trail is that it’s easy to miss the turnoff to the Deer Lake trail right after Sol Duc Falls. Make sure to follow the signs that go towards the Lover’s Lane trail and back towards the parking lot on the opposite side of the Sol Duc. From there you’ll find the trail signs indicating the turn uphill to Deer Lake.

After the falls it is 2.5 miles uphill to Deer Lake. The climb is very gradual for the most part, but quite rocky. All along this trail and at Deer Lake there were many nice-looking backcountry camping spots. For more information on backcountry camping see https://www.nps.gov/olym/planyourvisit/wilderness-permits.htm.

Deer Lake is a great place to take a break, enjoy a snack, take a selfie, or maybe even go for a swim if the weather is warm enough. The lake also appears to have fish and many hikers take fishing poles up to the lake. Bear tracks can be seen in this area, though we haven’t seen a bear here.

This is where you can split off to either the Little Divide or the High Divide trails. We choose the High Divide trail this time, as it was later in the season with less snow probable at the higher elevations we’d encounter. The climb continues here, but this also where things start to get exciting. In just under .5 miles from Deer Lake, you will start to notice a more sub-alpine environment. The fir trees thin and open meadows award you with amazing views. After another mile or so, the Olympic mountains peek out from the various ridgelines surrounding you. After continuing eastward up the ridge, you will see the Seven Lakes Basin spur trail (to Lunch Lake). We had our sights set on summiting Bogachiel Peak for lunch, so we continued past this junction. However, many backpackers make camp in the otherworldly Seven Lakes Basin (spoiler alert: there are more than 7 lakes in the basin!)

Continue up the trail, which hugs the side of the steep slope before it breaches a saddle. As you turn the corner, there is a small pine tree signifying that you will soon see a treasure of the park, Mount Olympus. When we turned that corner we both were astonished and excited. We gazed upon its majesty and greatness.

Shortly after the first breathtaking view of Mount Olympus is 5,446′ Bogachiel Peak. The peak offers 360-degree views that include the Olympic Mountains, the Bailey Range, the Seven Lakes Basin, and the Hoh River Valley. We sat on the peak for lunch and took several photos, also spotting a single black bear down in the basin from this vantage point.

The High Divide continues for 1.8 miles looking over the Hoh River Valley and the majestic Olympic Mountains. This was my favorite part of this trail; it was the treasure that I had come for and it was better than what I expected. If you are going to come to Olympic National Park this is the best way to see it.

We made our way down to Heart Lake towards the Sol Duc River Trail. This lake lives up to its name. The campground here has a pit toilet, and the lake is a nice spot for a snack break.

From here it’s 7.5 miles downhill back to the trailhead parking lot, descending roughly 2800′ at a gradual grade that wasn’t too hard on our knees. We returned to the cool, lush forest of old-growth Douglas Fir and crossed over the Sol Duc River on a narrow wooden bridge. We were greeted by a herd of Roosevelt Elk closer to the Sol Duc Falls trail intersection.

For an excellent resource on the High Divide Trail, including a trail description, please follow this link: https://www.nps.gov/olym/planyourvisit/high-divide-loop.htm

Garibaldi Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada

September 2018

Garibaldi Provincial Park in British Columbia, Canada, is a breathtakingly beautiful place to explore. At over 1950 square miles, Garibaldi encompasses rugged mountain peaks, powder blue glacier-fed lakes, and old-growth forests. The Canadian government designated Garibaldi a provincial park (similar to a state park here in the U.S.) in 1927. The park is home to black bears, marmots, deer, mountain goats, and eagles. Douglas Fir, Western Red Cedar, and Western Hemlock fill the densely populated forests year-round, while fields of wildflowers blanket the vast meadows in the summer months. We were impressed with the cleanliness of the park, the immaculate trail conditions, and not to mention the genuine friendliness of the Canadians. These reasons make Garibaldi one of our favorite destinations to hike in North America.

We flew into Seattle SeaTac Airport and drove 4-5 hours north, through the Canadian Border, past Vancouver, and up the Sea-to-Sky Highway to Squamish, British Columbia for the night. We woke early the next morning and drove about 45 minutes to the Cheakamus Lake trailhead, which is just south of Whistler Village. We hiked on an overcast and drizzly day, so we were not afforded the magnificent views one would normally have at this park. Nevertheless, the scenery was still beautiful and we took many photos.

The hike begins with a gradual ascent above the Cheakamus River, through Western Red Cedar. After about a mile, turn right onto Helm Creek Trail and head down to a cool bridge that crosses the river before heading steeply uphill.

The trail switchbacks for 3.7 miles through dense forest to the wide-open meadows of Helm Creek Campground. Along the way, you will pass beautiful Douglas Fir and fragrant Western Red Cedar. As you near the campground, you will start to see wild blueberry bushes along the trail. These bear delicious fruit in late summer/early fall.

Helm Creek Campground rests in an open sub-alpine meadow. It offers 9 tent platforms, a pit toilet, and bear-proof food storage. The campground is very popular with bears (see sign!), and we had our first bear sighting here. Continuing past the campground, the trees begin to thin out and the trail flattens through more open meadows. On a clear day, you can see the Black Tusk towering above in the distance. We topped a low ridge and began hiking across a moon-like volcanic landscape, aptly named Cinder Flats.

At this point, the wind picked up and the rain began to fall harder, so we decided to turn around and adventure “off-trail” for a while. Heading back on Helm Creek Trail and over the low ridge again, we followed our GPS and ventured on what appeared to be a primitive trail towards Helm Glacier. We never really found the trail, but our trusty GPS led the way through blueberry filled meadows and up sandy ridges towards the glacier. Some maps call this “trail” the Helm Glacier Route/Castle Towers Route. The washed-out areas were full of marmot families, whistling shrill warning calls of our impending approach to one another. After passing the marmot village we scrambled up a steep hillside to a crest and saw the glacier and small meltwater lake (unnamed). We found a spot on the rocks and ate our lunch before heading back down to the Helm Creek Trail once again.

We retraced our steps along Helm Creek Trail for a pleasant descent to the Cheakamus River. At the trail junction, we decided to explore Cheakamus Lake so we turned right and continued our gradual ascent. Once we reached the western terminus of the lake, we turned a corner and a medium-sized black bear stood in the middle of the trail and just stared at us. We made some noise and swung our hiking poles in the air while slowly backing away. The bear kept eye contact with us and finally moved off the trail towards the lake. We decided at this point to turn back for the trailhead parking lot. Our GPS indicated we had hiked 20 miles at the end of our adventure.

Garibaldi Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada

August 2018

Garibaldi Provincial Park in British Columbia, Canada, is a breathtakingly beautiful place to explore. At over 1950 square miles, Garibaldi encompasses rugged mountain peaks, powder blue glacier-fed lakes, and old-growth forests. The Canadian government designated Garibaldi a provincial park (similar to a state park here in the U.S.) in 1927. The park is home to black bears, marmots, deer, mountain goats, and eagles. Douglas Fir, Western Red Cedar, and Western Hemlock fill the densely populated forests year-round, while fields of wildflowers blanket the vast meadows in the summer months. We were impressed with the cleanliness of the park, the immaculate trail conditions, and not to mention the genuine friendliness of the Canadians. These reasons make Garibaldi one of our favorite destinations to hike in North America.

We flew into Seattle SeaTac Airport and drove 4/5 hours through the Canadian border, past Vancouver, and up the Sea-to-Sky Highway to Squamish where we spent the night. We woke up early the next morning and drove 30 minutes to the Rubble Creek Trailhead. This is the starting point for several different backpack/camping routes, so the parking lot was quite full. We found a spot but when we returned to our car, the lot was overflowing and cars were parked for several hundred meters down the road. The 18 mile, 5000′ climb up to Panorama Ridge is an iconic hike because it rewards you with unprecedented 360-degree views of the majestic glacial peaks and lakes the fill Garibaldi Provincial Park.

The hike begins on a very well-maintained trail, gradually ascending through thick forest. After about 3.5 miles, you will come to a trail junction for Garibaldi Lake and Taylor Meadows. We took the more direct trail to the left, towards the popular campground area Taylor Meadows. As you approach the vast campground, the trees thin and wide sub-alpine meadows appear. There are 40 wooden tent platforms, two outhouses, and bear-proof food storage here.

Beyond Taylor Meadows Campground, the views open up and you begin to see the Black Tusk. Since we were hiking on an overcast day, we did not get a glimpse of the Tusk until there was a brief break in the clouds later on. This being early August, the meadows were exploding with at least a dozen varieties of wildflowers, flanking streams and mini waterfalls. It was a photographer’s dream!

The Taylor Meadows trail becomes Helm Creek Trail as you continue the gradual ascent past this breathtaking scenery. There are run-off creeks, creating small waterfalls and rapids at every turn. You will begin to pass several small lakes along the way. Admire the views of turquoise blue Garibaldi Lake in the distance!

Soon you will reach a junction for Panorama Ridge. If you continue straight you will eventually reach the Helm Creek Campground and Cheakamus Lake. However, to reach Panorama Ridge you will turn right here and begin the steep climb to the top. As you climb, the Black Tusk looms behind you and Helm Lake shows in the distance. The clouds parted for a few minutes to allow picturesque views of the Black Tusk that day.

The last mile is a rock scramble to the top, finally reaching the summit of Panorama Ridge. If you hike on a clear day, you will be rewarded with views of the surrounding peaks, glaciers, and the turquoise blue waters of Garibaldi Lake below. While we hiked on a foggy day, we had nearly whiteout conditions and zero visibility just after we reached the summit. Thus, the lake was not visible to the south of the ridge. Nevertheless, it felt like a great accomplishment to summit the ridge. We have included some photos here, but plan to return to complete this hike again on a clear day.

We retraced our steps back to the Helm Creek Trail, and decided to take the cutoff trail south (left) towards Garibaldi Lake, called the Black Tusk/Cinder Flats trail. Follow this trail through a portion of upper Taylor Meadows before it switchbacks down to the lake over 1.2 miles. We enjoyed a snack lakeside and met the endless hoards of people making their way to Garibaldi Lake campground. We descended 3000′ over 5 miles down the Garibaldi Lake trail and back to the parking lot. This was the most crowded portion of the hike and seemed to go on forever. Thankfully the scenery helped make it enjoyable.