Newberry National Volcanic Monument, Central Oregon, USA

July 2019

The Newberry National Volcanic Monument was dedicated in 1990 to protect the area around the Newberry Volcano. The Newberry Volcano is an active shield-shaped stratovolcano, which is quite unlike the more familiar cone-shaped Cascade volcanoes. The Newberry Volcano is the largest in the Cascades and covers an area the size of Rhode Island.

This loop explores the highlights of the national monument starting with its highest point, Paulina Peak. The views from the peak are magnificent and extend from the Newberry Caldera, Paulina and East lakes, and to the Central Oregon Cascades; on a clear day, all the way to Mt. Shasta and Mt. Adams. It offers up-close and birds-eye views of obsidian flows and pumice from recent eruptions. It also skirts the sides of Lost Lake, an area of active gas emission from the volcano.

When we arrived for the hike, the gate of the Paulina Peak summit access road was still closed, so we parked at the bottom, just off the main road. The first mile of the hike was very green and filled with the clean, fresh scent of pine trees, and followed the road up to the parking lot at the base of the road that allows cars access to the top of Paulina Peak. A half-mile after the parking lot, looking back you can see the first views of Paulina Lake.

In another half-mile, the trail opens up to an area with high cliffs and sheer drop-offs that allow for great views of Paulina Peak. Paulina Peak from this perspective looks very rugged and embodies its volcanic heritage.

The next mile leading to the peak is forested, though is more open than the lower elevations. There are many educational signs in this area talking about the Whitebark Pine that are only found at the highest mountain peaks in Oregon. In the 1950s this area experienced an outbreak of a fungus called blister rust that killed most of the Whitebark Pines. However, some of the population of Whitebark Pines in the area were resistant to the blister rust outbreak. Today, there is an effort to collect and propagate seeds from the trees that can resist the disease.

The peak provides amazing views of the Newberry Caldera, both Paulina and East Lakes, the obsidian flow, the central Oregon Cascades including the Three Sisters, Mount Bachelor, Broken Top, and on a clear day, the distant volcanic mountains Mount Adams and Mount Shasta. Near the peak is a bathroom, and a small parking area for summit access road. This is a good spot for a snack.

Next, we backtracked a third of a mile to a trail junction with the Crater Rim Trail. The next mile and half past the junction are behind and below Paulina peak and have views south and east of the volcano. The numerous buttes and cones looking southeast were very interesting. In this area and for the rest of the trail, there are large amounts of impossibly light pumice.

For another mile and a half until the junction with the Lost Lake Trail, the trail hugs the edge of the caldera and views of Paulina Lake and East Lake appear. The trail approaches the backside of the obsidian flow, offering a different perspective of this unique volcanic landmark.

At the Lost Lake Trail junction, we started the descent back to the bottom of the caldera. The descent is 3 miles and contains great views of the obsidian flows, the interesting smells of an active volcano, and a sense of being almost on another planet.

At this point the trail will become almost entirely obsidian. With the sharp obsidian underfoot I was grateful for my hiking shoes, as I would not want to tackle this section barefoot!

Towards the bottom of the descent, the trees thin out, the trail flattens, and you will reach a junction with the Newberry Crater Trail. From here, it’s about three and a half miles back to the Paulina Peak summit access road.

The beginning of this trail was mostly flat and hugged the obsidian flow for a mile and a half. The flow was interesting, but the rest of the trail we knew ahead of time was going to be a bit dull. After the obsidian was out of sight, the trail undulated up and down several small hills, following a power line for about 2 miles until we reached our vehicle.

Three Sisters Wilderness, Central Oregon, USA

July 2018

The Cascade Mountain Range cuts through the states of Washington and Oregon, making a distinctive north-south line through their centers until it’s terminus at the northern edge of the Sierra Nevada Range in Northern California. Part of the Ring of Fire, the Cascades of North America contains 18 volcanoes, 7 of which have been active within the last 200 years. Central Oregon contains a cluster of volcanoes known as the Three Sisters that are a hiker’s dream. Rising up as 3 singular cone-shaped peaks, with Mt. Bachelor and Broken Top to the south, summiting any will reward you with unparalleled views of Central Oregon.

For this hike, we chose to summit South Sister, which is the 3rd highest peak in the state of Oregon at 10,358′. The hike is roughly 12 miles round trip, but you will climb 4900′ in 6 miles, some of which is on loose cinder scree. The views at the top of this inactive stratovolcano are worth it; on a clear day, you can see over 100 miles in each direction. This is a popular hike and the trail is in good condition. Please note that the summit can create its own dangerous weather conditions, so if it’s cloudy or there is a storm approaching, do not attempt to summit this mountain. We hiked in late July under warm, sunny skies and encountered less than 20 people the entire day.

Start this hike at the Devil’s Lake Trailhead, which is about 6.5 miles after Mt. Bachelor ski area on the Cascade Lakes Highway (about 40 minutes from Sunriver or Bend). You must pay a $5 day-use fee or display an Annual Northwest Forest Pass to park here. Following the South Sister Climber Trail, you cross the highway and begin your ascent through a lush mountain hemlock forest. After about 2 miles you emerge from the forest into a beautiful meadow, with views of the eponymous summit ahead. From here you can spot Broken top to your right and Mt. Bachelor behind you.

Hiking through the meadow is peaceful and easy, as you approach the base of South Sister. The ascent begins around mile 3.5, and you start your way up the steep rocky slope. About 2/3 of the way to the top, there is a saddle at the base of Lewis Glacier and a small green lake.

The final climb to the summit is a series of switchbacks along an exposed ridge. The terrain is very loose cinder scree, so it is advisable to wear sturdy boots and gaiters to avoid getting the cinder into your socks. The hard push to the top is worth every effort. As you crest the summit, you will see Oregon’s highest lake, The Teardrop Pool, which is actually made of melting glacier water. When we hiked we saw a brave man taking a very cold swim! Hike around the western rim of the crater to the official summit and take in the amazing views.

After enjoying the summit views for over an hour, we simply retraced our path back down to the car. It was a long, steep descent, so hiking poles (and knee braces in our case) are recommended.