Glacier Peak Wilderness, Washington, USA

July, 2021

Glacier Peak Wilderness is a beautiful and remote area located in the Central Washington Cascades. Dominated by the 10,541′ Glacier Peak stratovolcano, the wilderness area contains deep glacial canyons, colorful lakes, and several popular hiking routes. For this trip, we chose an out and back, mainly due to time constraints and washed out trail reports that prevented us from doing the popular loop option through Buck Creek Pass. We began our trip at the 3500′ Phelps Creek trailhead. The bumpy Chiwawa River forest road out of Cole’s Corner made us glad that we rented a 4WD vehicle at the airport. Since our flight came in mid-day and the drive took several hours, we decided to camp at one of the many walk-in campgrounds along the road. We found the sites at Nineteen Mile Campground peaceful and had the night to ourselves.

The next morning, we drove to the TH and began a nice, 6.5 mile gradual 1900′ ascent to Spider Meadows along the Phelps Creek trail. Spider Meadow is a very popular spot for large group camping, families with kiddos, and backpackers wanting to get an early start up the Spider Gap glacier. The meadow is huge, surrounded by snow-melt waterfalls cascading down steep rock faces, and has a plethora of amazing campsites. Once we crossed the meadow we began the steep switchbacks up to the base of Spider Glacier. Looking down the valley we had just hiked up gave us a feeling of accomplishment, but the climb was only half done.

Now it was starting to get fun! We put on our microspikes and climbed up the snow fields of Spider Glacier. The views were spectacular, and we spotted several wolf spiders in the snow along the way. At the top of 7100′ Spider Gap, we could see many of the peaks and valleys of the Glacier Peak Wilderness area, as well as the beautiful Lyman Lakes below. Below Spider Gap one can descend via the large snowfield on the left or the scree on the right. We opted to hike down the snowfield until we spotted some cairns and use trails along the lower portion of the scree field. The trail is easy to lose and quite slippery; hiking poles came in handy many times. We found the trail alongside the turquoise colored upper Lyman Lakes and hiked a most scenic descent down to milky-white lower Lyman Lake. There were many campsites along this route, along with fields of wildflowers, gorgeous views, and seasonal streams.

From the stream crossing at Lower Lyman, at the intersection of the Cloudy Pass trail via Holden Village, we climbed another 1.8 miles up to Cloudy Pass in search of a scenic spot to make camp. The upper meadows were filled with white pasqueflower and curious marmots. To the SW we had amazing views of Fortress, Chiwawa, and Red Mountains. The mosquitos were plentiful in this area, and despite wearing bug nets and permethrin-treated clothes, we got many bites. We resorted to eating in our tent and brushing our teeth under our head nets that evening.

The colorful sunset and sunrise were breathtaking from Cloudy Pass! We positioned our tent along the ridge to have a view of distant Glacier Peak.

The next morning we decided to hike out to Miner’s Ridge and Image Lake. We took the climber’s route along the scree field to Suiattle Pass to join the PCT for a mere 0.8 miles until the turnoff for Image Lake. This trail was less used and quite brushy, and we enjoyed even more solitude along the way. There was an exciting creek crossing just above a decent-sized waterfall. We chose to soak our feet and wash off in the creek on our hike back. It was fun exploring ruins from an old miner’s camp, but the big WOW factor came while traversing along Miner’s Ridge. The views of Glacier Peak and surrounding valley were spectacular. This was one of my favorite parts of the entire trip. The meadows along the ridge trail were full over wildflowers and butterflies. We opted to eat lunch on some boulders overlooking the valley and heard (then spotted) some fighter jets circumnavigating Glacier Peak itself.

We hiked back to our camp at Cloudy Pass, packed up our tent, grateful the marmots hadn’t chewed their way inside, and descended to Lower Lyman Lake. We decided to push the 3+ miles up to the Upper Lyman Lakes to find a campsite. There were a few groups at each “designated campsite area”, and preferring privacy, we explored the area near the waterfall between Upper and Lower Lyman to find a suitable campsite. The cloudy waters of the upper lakes, due to rock flour from the surrounding peaks, were cold and refreshing. The weather that evening was brisk but the views of the peaks surrounding the lake made up for it.

The next morning, we awoke to very chilly temps and packed up to head out on our final day. We climbed up the glacier above Upper Lyman Lake to Spider Gap and enjoyed the expansive views once again. We had fun trying to glissade on our waterproof jackets down parts of Spider Glacier. It was bumpy due to melting snow and I think my tailbone was a little sore afterwards. We enjoyed soaking our feet in the frigid glacial waters below the snow and took our time packing up after lunch. We then descended back through Spider Meadow and along Phelps Creek to the trailhead and our waiting car. Overall we clocked over 35 miles and over 11K feet of elevation gain for a rewarding destination trip!

Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Washington, USA

August 2019

Often referred to as the most beautiful place to backpack in the Pacific Northwest, The Enchantments in the Central Cascades’ Alpine Lakes Wilderness is a collection of breathtaking, blue-green glacier-carved lakes that dot the high alpine landscape for miles.  Reaching this otherworldly scenery requires advanced hiking skills, scrambling over boulders, and lots of endurance.  At 18 miles, this through-hike can be done in 1 day but it is not recommended.  Between May 15-Oct 31, permits are required for any overnight camping in any of the 5 Enchantment areas and can be obtained from the Leavenworth Ranger Station via lottery starting in February, or in-person.  More information can be found here: https://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/okawen/passes-permits/recreation/?cid=fsbdev3_053607

To complete this as a through-hike, if you have the luxury to you can use 2 vehicles, leaving one at your endpoint TH and driving the other to your starting point.  Alternatively, there are private shuttle services that run out of the city of Leavenworth. We used the Leavenworth Shuttle service, which met us at the Snow Lakes parking lot at 6am and drove us up to the Stuart Lakes TH about 35 minutes later, at the cost of $40 for 2 people and sparing us almost two thousand feet of elevation gain.  The Enchantments can be approached two ways: via the long, gradual 5000′ ascent of the Snow Lake Trail, or the shorter, steeper ascent out of the Stuart Lake trailhead.   We chose the latter, mainly because, while the ascent is much steeper (1900′ in less than 1 mile up Asgard Pass), the overall elevation gain would be nearly 2000′ less than starting at Snow Lake TH.

It is important to note that this wilderness area is entirely run by the Forest Service. The trail is not maintained like the trails you would find at a national, state, or even county park. Thus, it is quite easy to lose the trail once you are out of the forest. Please download a GPS map prior to this hike and pay attention to the cairns in the higher elevations (although at times there are cairns all over the place due to hikers creating their own routes). We consulted our GPS map throughout the 2 days we spent on the trail to make sure we were headed in the right direction.

Our hike began as a gradual ascent through lush forest in the crisp, early morning sunshine. At the first trail junction, we veered left and up the Colchuck Lake Trail as the scenery began to open up around us.  Colchuck Lake is beautiful, and an excellent place to camp if you are unable to get permits for the Core. 

After precariously crossing a large boulder field at the southern foot of the lake, we started our sharp and very steep ascent of Asgaard pass.  This is where we donned our knee braces,, changed into shorts, and packed away our hiking poles.  It was helpful to have our hands free, as several sections of the ascent require scrambling.  It is very easy to lose the trail here, because cairns are scattered everywhere.  Pick a line and follow it up, staying to the left of the outlet creek as it tumbles down the mountain side. While ascending, be sure to stop and take photos, admire the view, and keep an eye out for mountain goats along the way. Towards the top of the climb we crossed the outlet creek at the base of a few small waterfalls.  Once the 1900′ climb is over, you will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Colchuck Lake, Dragon’s Tail, and the surrounding peaks.

With the uphill scramble behind us, we took our time exploring the barren landscape of the upper Enchantment Lakes basin. The scenery was reminiscent of California’s High Sierras, with numerous glacier fed lakes and streams flanked by tall granite peaks. Tranquil and Isolation Lakes dominate the upper basin, connected by many small streams and waterfalls. We found a snow field to “ice our sore knees” in, as well as a chilly stream to soad our tired feet.

The rest of the day was spent meandering mostly downhill, roughly following Snow Creek past countless clear, blue-green lakes and deciduous Larch trees. It is in this basin that we wished we had days to explore, in order to fully take in the beauty of this place.

Lake Viviane was the last of the Enchantment Lakes that was visible from the trail. With Prusik Peak looming above, it is a sight to behold. Once we crossed Snow Creek, right above the waterfall, we began our rocky descent down to Snow Lake where we had an overnight camping permit.

After spending a restful night at Snow Lake, we followed the trail for 8 miles at a consistent decline through a few boulder fields, lush mountain meadows, and thick forest all the way to the trailhead.

Glacier Peak Wilderness, Washington, USA

July 2019

Express Tips:

• Bring a camera, the views and wildflowers are incredible
• The weather is volatile, prepare accordingly
• Prepare for brown/black bears in the area
• It is best to have high-clearance, but you don’t need 4WD to get to the trailhead

The Glacier Peak Wilderness backcountry is off the beaten path, which makes exploring this gem even more rewarding. With 450+ miles of trails, you are sure to find an adventure to suit your needs. The valleys are steep, the wildflowers abundant, and the views are amazing.

You can start this destination hike by flying into the Seattle airport. We flew in on a Friday on Southwest Airlines. When we fly with Southwest we take advantage of our companion pass. https://www.southwest.com/air/booking/index.html

The drive to the trailhead from the airport was about 100 miles and close to three hours. The town of Lake Stevens was our last stop before driving through the mountains to the trailhead.

Our plan for the first night was to hike in about 6 miles and stay at the Mackinaw Shelter Campground. The hike was typical for Washington: thick forests of Western Red Cedar, Douglas Fir, and Hemlock sprinkled with abundant creeks. Although the trailhead parking lot was nearly full, we didn’t see many people on the trail.

We set up our camp next to the North Fork Sauk River in the Mackinaw Shelter campground. We decided to stay at this campground because we started later in the day and it is at the base of a steep 4-mile climb up to White’s Pass. Falling asleep was easy with the white noise from the river just outside our tent. We kept our bear canister away from camp for the night. We also hung a bear bag this first night because of extra food and toiletries; it was difficult to hang here but not impossible. There are other camping options closer to the trailhead at Red Creek (4.6 miles) and after the climb at White Pass (10.4 miles, popular with PCT through-hikers).

We knew it was going to rain that night and the next day and prepared our camp accordingly. We decided to place each of our packs in large garbage bags under our vestibules to keep them dry.

In the morning there was a very light rain, as expected. We packed up camp, prepared for the rainy day ahead.

Not too far out of camp, the incline started. The grade was manageable, but not easy. Most of the time the trail is under tree cover, occasionally opening up for views of the mountains ahead and the valley below. On this day, the skies were full of mist and fog, so our views were slightly obscured.

Close to the top of the ascent to White’s Pass the steep alpine meadows make their debut. Entering the meadows and leaving the tree cover behind was one of my favorite moments of this hike. Here the beautiful wildflowers and peaceful alpine meadows are the starts.

Just below the ridgeline, we connected with the Pacific Crest Trail or PCT for about 10 miles. We frequently find ourselves on this trail and have never been let down, as it always delivers an amazing experience. This was no exception…. the PCT delivered.

The next half mile on the PCT contained many spring-fed water sources that flow down the steep mountains into the North Fork Sauk River. I would suggest getting water here or at the White’s Pass campground because most water sources on the ridge for the next few miles are stagnant ponds and pools.

The next 9 miles on the PCT were wonderful. The views of the valleys below and mountains above were nothing short of amazing. The wildflowers were abundant, especially the fields of purple mountain lupine. Our views expanded as the skies cleared and the sun came out. The trail undulated up and down hills and ridges as we passed several springs. Just past Dishpan Gap, where the Bald Eagle Trail branches to the left and skirts around June Mountain for 4 miles, we chose to take the shorter and more technical High Route, up and over the steep ridge and down to Blue Lake for our second night of camping.

We found a secluded spot at the western edge of Blue Lake and set up camp for the night. There are several campsite options around the southern edges of the lake as well. The crystal blue water surrounded by lush greenery was absolutely breathtaking and perfect for taking photos. Blue Lake is the last reliable source of water until you return to the North Fork Sauk River, so it’s best to fill up here. The overnight temperatures were cold, but the skies were clear and full of starts. Thanks to the previous day’s rain, our gear was still damp in the morning when we set off for Pilot Ridge and day 3 of our trip.

The skies were clear when we set off for Pilot Ridge, making for excellent long-distance views of the surrounding peaks. The trail climbed and then followed the ridge for miles. We could see Mt. Rainier and the Wenatchee Mountains, as well as the Cadet and Pride Glaciers below Monte Cristo Peak.

After taking in the views for several miles, the trail dips back into thick forest and begins a brutal descent of 4000′ over just 5 miles. We donned our knee braces and lengthened our hiking poles to help ease the impact. At the bottom of the climb, the trail crosses the North Fork Sauk River over a downed log, then meets up with the river trail for a few miles until you reach the parking lot.

Olympic National Park, Washington, USA

October 2018

The Olympic Peninsula is one of the greenest and most majestic places on earth. Its treasures are well hidden by the miles of trails it takes to get to the center, and at 1,442 square miles, you could take a couple of days to drive around the circumference of the park. The area has been recognized as a National Park by Congress since 1938 making it 80+ years old. The park is home to deer, Roosevelt elk, black bears, and non-native mountain goats. The climate is considered a temperate rainforest that receives approximately 56 inches of precipitation per year.

You can start this destination hike by flying into the Seattle airport. We flew in Friday on Southwest Airlines. When we fly with Southwest we take advantage of our companion pass. https://www.southwest.com/air/booking/index.html

We picked up our rental car at SeaTac and took a ferry across Puget Sound from Seattle to the Olympic Peninsula. Taking the ferry to Bainbridge Island was a treat. The views of Seattle and the ferry experience were well worth the cost of the trip at less than $20. For more information on the current fares see http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries/fares/.

Once on Bainbridge Island, we drove 1 hour and 15 minutes to Sequim, WA, the base town for our trip. We stayed at the unpretentious and clean Great House Motel. The two biggest factors in finding this hotel were its low price and the reviews stating it was clean. For more information on the Great House Hotel, see https://www.greathousemotel.com/.

We arrived late at the hotel but had time to unpack and prepare the day ahead. We woke up at 6 am to drive the last 1 hour and 30 minutes to the parking lot of the Sol Duc River trailhead. When we arrived that morning the parking lot was almost empty, with a few backpackers’ cars here and there.

The trail conditions were excellent. One issue with the trail is that it’s easy to miss the turnoff to the Deer Lake trail right after Sol Duc Falls. Make sure to follow the signs that go towards the Lover’s Lane trail and back towards the parking lot on the opposite side of the Sol Duc. From there you’ll find the trail signs indicating the turn uphill to Deer Lake.

After the falls it is 2.5 miles uphill to Deer Lake. The climb is very gradual for the most part, but quite rocky. All along this trail and at Deer Lake there were many nice-looking backcountry camping spots. For more information on backcountry camping see https://www.nps.gov/olym/planyourvisit/wilderness-permits.htm.

Deer Lake is a great place to take a break, enjoy a snack, take a selfie, or maybe even go for a swim if the weather is warm enough. The lake also appears to have fish and many hikers take fishing poles up to the lake. Bear tracks can be seen in this area, though we haven’t seen a bear here.

This is where you can split off to either the Little Divide or the High Divide trails. We choose the High Divide trail this time, as it was later in the season with less snow probable at the higher elevations we’d encounter. The climb continues here, but this also where things start to get exciting. In just under .5 miles from Deer Lake, you will start to notice a more sub-alpine environment. The fir trees thin and open meadows award you with amazing views. After another mile or so, the Olympic mountains peek out from the various ridgelines surrounding you. After continuing eastward up the ridge, you will see the Seven Lakes Basin spur trail (to Lunch Lake). We had our sights set on summiting Bogachiel Peak for lunch, so we continued past this junction. However, many backpackers make camp in the otherworldly Seven Lakes Basin (spoiler alert: there are more than 7 lakes in the basin!)

Continue up the trail, which hugs the side of the steep slope before it breaches a saddle. As you turn the corner, there is a small pine tree signifying that you will soon see a treasure of the park, Mount Olympus. When we turned that corner we both were astonished and excited. We gazed upon its majesty and greatness.

Shortly after the first breathtaking view of Mount Olympus is 5,446′ Bogachiel Peak. The peak offers 360-degree views that include the Olympic Mountains, the Bailey Range, the Seven Lakes Basin, and the Hoh River Valley. We sat on the peak for lunch and took several photos, also spotting a single black bear down in the basin from this vantage point.

The High Divide continues for 1.8 miles looking over the Hoh River Valley and the majestic Olympic Mountains. This was my favorite part of this trail; it was the treasure that I had come for and it was better than what I expected. If you are going to come to Olympic National Park this is the best way to see it.

We made our way down to Heart Lake towards the Sol Duc River Trail. This lake lives up to its name. The campground here has a pit toilet, and the lake is a nice spot for a snack break.

From here it’s 7.5 miles downhill back to the trailhead parking lot, descending roughly 2800′ at a gradual grade that wasn’t too hard on our knees. We returned to the cool, lush forest of old-growth Douglas Fir and crossed over the Sol Duc River on a narrow wooden bridge. We were greeted by a herd of Roosevelt Elk closer to the Sol Duc Falls trail intersection.

For an excellent resource on the High Divide Trail, including a trail description, please follow this link: https://www.nps.gov/olym/planyourvisit/high-divide-loop.htm