Glacier Peak Wilderness, Washington, USA

July 2019

Express Tips:

• Bring a camera, the views and wildflowers are incredible
• The weather is volatile, prepare accordingly
• Prepare for brown/black bears in the area
• It is best to have high-clearance, but you don’t need 4WD to get to the trailhead

The Glacier Peak Wilderness backcountry is off the beaten path, which makes exploring this gem even more rewarding. With 450+ miles of trails, you are sure to find an adventure to suit your needs. The valleys are steep, the wildflowers abundant, and the views are amazing.

You can start this destination hike by flying into the Seattle airport. We flew in on a Friday on Southwest Airlines. When we fly with Southwest we take advantage of our companion pass. https://www.southwest.com/air/booking/index.html

The drive to the trailhead from the airport was about 100 miles and close to three hours. The town of Lake Stevens was our last stop before driving through the mountains to the trailhead.

Our plan for the first night was to hike in about 6 miles and stay at the Mackinaw Shelter Campground. The hike was typical for Washington: thick forests of Western Red Cedar, Douglas Fir, and Hemlock sprinkled with abundant creeks. Although the trailhead parking lot was nearly full, we didn’t see many people on the trail.

We set up our camp next to the North Fork Sauk River in the Mackinaw Shelter campground. We decided to stay at this campground because we started later in the day and it is at the base of a steep 4-mile climb up to White’s Pass. Falling asleep was easy with the white noise from the river just outside our tent. We kept our bear canister away from camp for the night. We also hung a bear bag this first night because of extra food and toiletries; it was difficult to hang here but not impossible. There are other camping options closer to the trailhead at Red Creek (4.6 miles) and after the climb at White Pass (10.4 miles, popular with PCT through-hikers).

We knew it was going to rain that night and the next day and prepared our camp accordingly. We decided to place each of our packs in large garbage bags under our vestibules to keep them dry.

In the morning there was a very light rain, as expected. We packed up camp, prepared for the rainy day ahead.

Not too far out of camp, the incline started. The grade was manageable, but not easy. Most of the time the trail is under tree cover, occasionally opening up for views of the mountains ahead and the valley below. On this day, the skies were full of mist and fog, so our views were slightly obscured.

Close to the top of the ascent to White’s Pass the steep alpine meadows make their debut. Entering the meadows and leaving the tree cover behind was one of my favorite moments of this hike. Here the beautiful wildflowers and peaceful alpine meadows are the starts.

Just below the ridgeline, we connected with the Pacific Crest Trail or PCT for about 10 miles. We frequently find ourselves on this trail and have never been let down, as it always delivers an amazing experience. This was no exception…. the PCT delivered.

The next half mile on the PCT contained many spring-fed water sources that flow down the steep mountains into the North Fork Sauk River. I would suggest getting water here or at the White’s Pass campground because most water sources on the ridge for the next few miles are stagnant ponds and pools.

The next 9 miles on the PCT were wonderful. The views of the valleys below and mountains above were nothing short of amazing. The wildflowers were abundant, especially the fields of purple mountain lupine. Our views expanded as the skies cleared and the sun came out. The trail undulated up and down hills and ridges as we passed several springs. Just past Dishpan Gap, where the Bald Eagle Trail branches to the left and skirts around June Mountain for 4 miles, we chose to take the shorter and more technical High Route, up and over the steep ridge and down to Blue Lake for our second night of camping.

We found a secluded spot at the western edge of Blue Lake and set up camp for the night. There are several campsite options around the southern edges of the lake as well. The crystal blue water surrounded by lush greenery was absolutely breathtaking and perfect for taking photos. Blue Lake is the last reliable source of water until you return to the North Fork Sauk River, so it’s best to fill up here. The overnight temperatures were cold, but the skies were clear and full of starts. Thanks to the previous day’s rain, our gear was still damp in the morning when we set off for Pilot Ridge and day 3 of our trip.

The skies were clear when we set off for Pilot Ridge, making for excellent long-distance views of the surrounding peaks. The trail climbed and then followed the ridge for miles. We could see Mt. Rainier and the Wenatchee Mountains, as well as the Cadet and Pride Glaciers below Monte Cristo Peak.

After taking in the views for several miles, the trail dips back into thick forest and begins a brutal descent of 4000′ over just 5 miles. We donned our knee braces and lengthened our hiking poles to help ease the impact. At the bottom of the climb, the trail crosses the North Fork Sauk River over a downed log, then meets up with the river trail for a few miles until you reach the parking lot.